Mother-Daughter Discoveries in Seville’s Cuisine and History

Just minutes from Seville’s airport, our taxi veered off the main thoroughfares, weaving through increasingly narrow neighborhood streets. As the passages grew tighter, I began to suspect if they were actually streets or ancient alleyways – a testament to Seville’s carefully preserved medieval character.

As our taxi pulled away, we found ourselves before the intriguing doors of Hotel Las Casas de la Judería, a hidden gem in Seville’s historic Jewish Quarter. Little did we know we were about to enter not just a hotel, but a maze-like neighborhood frozen in time – 27 traditional houses woven together by winding passageways and secret courtyards.

As we followed the doorman to our room through twisting corridors, a worry crept in: if we managed to find our way out of this labyrinth, would we ever be able to locate our particular ‘house’ again among the twenty-seven?

Our location couldn’t be more perfect, with the enchanting Plaza de Santa Cruz just across the way. The square was alive with the pulse of Sevillano nightlife.

Following the age-old traveler’s wisdom, I had left our first evening unscheduled to account for flight delays or travel fatigue. Yet as we witnessed the city awakening around us, I found myself regretting canceling our food tour reservation.

What we quickly learned – and what every first-time visitor to Seville should know – is that Spain unfolds its day at its own unhurried pace. Evenings become alive as we searched for dinner at what seemed a reasonable hour, while locals were just beginning their evening preparations. On this vibrant Friday night, the streets filled with Sevillano’s heading out for their late dinners, every promising restaurant buzzing with animated conversation and clinking glasses.

After wandering the labyrinthine streets, our growing hunger eventually led us to settle for what we’ll call a ‘good enough’ restaurant – a humble reminder that even imperfect moments make perfect travel memories. Our first night in Seville may not have gone exactly as planned, but it gave us an authentic taste of the city’s rhythm, one that we would soon learn to dance to.

We found our way through the hotel’s enclosed neighborhood maze to our lovely room. A sitting room a joined our large bedroom. Unusual for a European hotel.

Seville – Out and About

After a leisurely breakfast at the hotel, we meet our morning guide Sergio in the lobby.

We wind through awakening streets and past opening shops until we reach the majestic Real Alcázar.

This UNESCO World Heritage site began as a fortress-palace for Moorish Muslim kings, but its story spans centuries of changing hands and evolving architecture. Each courtyard, garden, and hall reflects a different chapter in Spain’s history – from Islamic caliphs to Christian monarchs, each leaving their mark while preserving what came before. The result is a masterpiece of Mudéjar architecture, where Islamic and Christian influences intertwine seamlessly.

Modern audiences might recognize the Alcázar’s stunning grounds from “Game of Thrones,” where it stood in for the Water Gardens of Dorne. Sergio points out a hall that was used for a scene from one of my favorit movies”Lawrence of Arabia.”

Yet despite the tourist crowds, there’s no denying the palace’s authentic grandeur. As Europe’s oldest palace still in active use, it continues to host Spanish royalty, bridging past and present in living stone.

Ancient gardens and even peacocks remain from the past.

Standing here, I can imagine Seville’s bustling past – merchants haggling in narrow streets, ships crowding the Guadalquivir with New World riches, nobles in carriages clip-clopping over cobblestones. The city’s golden age lives in these ancient stones.

The Cathedral of Saint Mary of the See, commonly known as Seville Cathedral, stands majestically in the heart of the city’s historic quarter. A colossal Gothic structure commands attention with its soaring spires and masterful altarpieces, making it one of the world’s largest medieval churches.

Inside, a series of ornate chapels showcase exquisite religious artworks and intricate gilded details, while the iconic La Giralda—a former minaret turned bell tower—provides breathtaking panoramic views of Seville’s terracotta rooftops and winding medieval streets.

La Giralda, the bell tower of Seville Cathedral, contains 34 ramps instead of stairs—a testament to its mosque origins. The innovative design allowed muezzins to ride horseback to the top for the Islamic call to prayer, a practical solution that has endured through its transformation into a Christian cathedral.

My daughter and I charge up La Giralda’s ramps, treating the ascent as an impromptu workout. Our energetic pace is repeatedly checked by slower climbers ahead of us.

At the summit, we encounter a different challenge—the viewing area is so packed with visitors that finding a spot to admire Seville’s panorama becomes a task in itself. The descent proves easier, and despite our impatience with the leisurely pace of other visitors, the spectacular views make the climb worthwhile.

While most people take their time ascending the historic tower, we preferred a more vigorous approach. Recommended to go at what ever pace you want but challenge yourself with the 34 ramps.

Our guide saves the grand finale for last—Christopher Columbus’s over-the-top tomb, held aloft by four rather dramatic pallbearers who seem to be engaged in an eternal weightlifting competition.

Only his knee bone rests in this ornate tomb. True to his explorer spirit, Columbus’s remains embarked on their own posthumous expedition, visiting four different locations before splitting up—his knee bone claiming permanent residence in Seville while the rest of him settled into the Columbus Lighthouse in Santo Domingo.

There’s something perfectly ironic about history’s most restless and tenacious explorer remaining scattered across the ocean he once sailed.

And if that’s not ironic enough, Columbus went down on a knee to Queen Isabella for the exploration funds.

We say “adios” to Sergio in the Plaza del Triunfo. The plaza leads to pedestrian streets of cafes and restaurants. We naively choose one because no one seems to be there. The other cafes I reasoned people know about and that’s why they’re crowded.

But we have yet to understand the Andalusian rhythm.

La Azotea is a local’s favorite, and they aren’t ready for lunch yet.

The waiter looks more like he’s hanging out at an edgy punk bar, but it turns out he’s actually serving with helpful suggestions and a keen understanding of the menu.

He shakes his head when I’m about to order a small omelet and mumbles, “Croquettes.” The croquettes are the best I’ve ever had, crispy on the outside and bursting with flavor on the inside.

We peruse the plaza.

I have to try the Spanish seasonal treat La Roscon, the King’s Cake. It’s sweet bread with whipped cream in the middle. Locals are lined up at bakeries picking up whole cakes for their Epiphany celebrations. I just want 1 piece.

At a bakery with some outside seating, I am able to order one delicious piece.

We watch Seville on a beautiful winter afternoon.

Our day of food isn’t over.

We are new to the food tour experience.

But highly recommend including in your travel plans.

A food tour of Seville begins. Our entertaining guide Manuel-Jesus or just Mani takes us first to a tapas bar.

Jamón hangs from the bar like ornaments, holding a cherished place in Spanish culture. It is celebrated not only as a beloved culinary delight but also as a symbol of tradition and craftsmanship.

Mani, shared an intriguing perspective on the hanging jamones displayed throughout the city. He noted that these cured hams are not just a culinary staple; they also tell a story rooted in local history. Hanging jamon’s indicated a Christian establishment during the Reformation, symbolizing a distinct cultural identity that has evolved over time.

This insight offers a fascinating glimpse into how food and history intertwine, enriching our appreciation of jamón as both a delicious treat and a testament to Seville’s vibrant heritage.

Mani, is particularly sensitive to the preferences of American travelers, understanding that many of us are not keen on diving into dishes that other spoons and fingers have touched.

To accommodate this, he made sure we had extra plates for sampling rather than sharing directly from the communal dishes.

As a mother, I appreciated this thoughtful approach, as it allowed us to enjoy the tapas experience while still feeling comfortable in a new dining culture.

Traveling often introduces us unintentionally to a range of new germs and bacteria. There’s nothing worse than getting sick on a trip—I’ve experienced that firsthand.

During our week in Spain, I noticed there seemed to be a cough present among many locals. While it’s tempting to wonder if tapas could be responsible, it’s important to remember that exposure to new environments and the mingling of various cultures can also contribute to the spread of common colds and flus.

Great tapas. Spinach with chicken.

Ultimately, while I enjoyed the rich flavors and communal aspect of tapas, my focus remained on maintaining our health during the journey.

We move onto another tapas bar and Mani I try Spain’s special sherry wine special to the Andalusia region.

Good thing about a food tasting tour don’t like it don’t finish it.

I swallow and carryon about my disgust of the taste which I can’t even describe because it’s so horrible.

The wine cellar is below our feet.

We move onto a restaurant where again we share food samples. We are the first there at 8:00. We are so American.

Fish croquettes that are delicious. More jamon. White fish. And we dessert tastings of arroz con leche (rice pudding) and cheesecake.

A food tour is more than just discovering local cuisine – it’s about connecting with locals like Mani, who makes a wonderful dinner companion. Through shared meals, drinks and stories, we gain authentic insights into daily local life. The personal connection formed over dinner conversation becomes the most meaningful part of the food tour experience.

Last Morning in Seville

We head to the Plaza de Toros – Bullring Real Maestranza.

It’s not the season for Spain’s traditional sport of bullfighting, but a museum is attached to the ring. The cultural history and intricacies of bullfighting, along with the pageantry surrounding it, are well explained in the museum’s installations.

The ring is accessible from the museum, and my daughter and I enter the quiet and eerie space. We are alone and can only imagine the crowds and festivities that are part of Seville’s bullfighting culture.

Although I wouldn’t want to witness a bullfight, I strongly recommend visiting the museum to gain an understanding of this aspect of Spanish heritage.

As with all our mother-daughter travels, Andalusia and the cities of Seville and Granada were my daughter’s picks.

The history of America is entwined with Andalusia.

She concluded that another day in Seville would have been ideal – making it 3 days rather than 2.

The stunning Real Alcázar and vibrant plazas made me understand why she wanted more time in this magical city.

I’m grateful for my daughter’s suggestion to explore and discover more of Spain.